Monday 12 January 2015

Chicken @ Oakford Social Club 11/01/2015



Around 5-6 years ago, myself and our friends used to go to the Oakford Social Club almost every Sunday.  This was the era when they had crayons, paints and canvasses on the tables for budding artists to draw pictures of bearded dwarves conjoined to tables over a nest of wasps.

It was always busy, sometimes we had to wait for a table.  We always had a roast dinner – sometimes they were very good, other times they were fairly awful.  Generally the staff were hopelessly forgetful and looked like they were on some form of tranquilizer.  It was a great place to spend a hungover Sunday.

Then they stopped doing the art.  They stopped doing the roasts.  And assumedly stopped doing the tranquilizer as the service is much better nowadays.  The really cute girl with short hair left.  We stopped going.

Myself and two close friends actually set off to go to The Blagrave Arms yesterday, having heard good things about their roast.  Alas it was closed so we went around the corner to our old home, the Oakford.  Sadly I had left my fake beard at home but did have coloured trousers on so I didn’t stand out too much.

I was a little pushed for time, having just 40 minutes until I had to meet someone - thankfully there was no kitchen queue.  The menu offered a choice of beef, chicken or something vegetarian that I took absolutely no notice of.  No beef left so chicken was the only option for an anti-vegetarian such as myself.

Despite there being no kitchen wait, it still took 30 minutes for the roast to arrive.  I have to say that I was not especially hopeful for a good roast dinner.  I really like the Oakford as a pub but just had a feeling that the roast was going to be awful.  My expectations were not changed upon arrival.


The vegetables were a seasonal root vegetable mix.  All quite soft and soggy, with a little microwave-warmth.  Swede, carrot, parsnip, onion, possibly some curly kale were in cube-like evidence.  Edible but not enjoyable.  Actually I quite liked the parsnip.

5 minutes later our separately-ordered cauliflower cheese arrived, and my extra gravy.  The cauliflower itself was fine but the cheese was runny and messy – I do prefer more of a sticky kind of feel to the cheese on cauliflower cheese.

The roast potatoes were the worst I have reviewed so far.  The word “roast” would be unjustified – they were cold inside, as if they had been reheated in the microwave.  Which they had been.

The Yorkshire pudding was burnt.

I do have something good to say.  There was a lot of chicken – a whole half of a chicken.  It was a touch on the dry side but more generous than I have experienced elsewhere.  I particularly enjoyed the breast.

And the gravy was a reasonable effort too.  One of those red-wine efforts that kind of taste like tomato.  A meat stock-based gravy would have been far more welcome but it did have a good consistency – this and the chicken rescued the roast – to an extent.

I am saddened to give such a bad review.  There is a lot to like about the Oakford – the staff are friendly, the burgers are excellent, the range of beers is one of my personal favourites in Reading – the crowd is generally good and music far more interesting than most places in the town centre offer.

It’s uniqueness does seem to have been faded by central office control over the years, and the roast dinner is a particularly disappointing example of this.  What might work in an inner-city pub in Stoke does not transfer to a hipster-style pub in Berkshire.  Horses for courses.

The roast dinner being bad isn’t down to the chef – it is down to what the pub is supplied with by central office.  The course is right but the horse is wrong.

A sad, lonely 2.8 out of 10 for what is my favourite Reading watering-hole, my favourite burger joint – and now my least-favourite roast dinner joint.

Sorry.

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